Turkish Cooking, and What Makes It Distinct

The kebabs, by region and style

Most of what people call “kebab” in Dubai is one of half a dozen quite different preparations. Knowing which is which makes ordering easier.

• Adana — hand-minced lamb seasoned with hot red pepper. The spicy benchmark, named for the city in southern Türkiye.
• Urfa — the same preparation without the chilli. Mild, and the usual choice for anyone sharing with children.
• Beyti — minced lamb with parsley and garlic. The wrapped version is rolled in flatbread; roasted beyti is served in tomato sauce and yoghurt.
• Ali Nazik — kebab laid over smoked aubergine blended with garlic and strained yoghurt. Rich, and among the best things on any Turkish menu.
• Abu Gannus — served on aubergine, tomato and green pepper under melted kashkaval cheese.
• Şiş — small lamb cubes on thin skewers, marinated and grilled quickly.

Charcoal, and why it matters

A gas grill cooks the meat. Live charcoal cooks it and smokes it at the same time, and the difference is not subtle once you have tasted both. It is also slower and more work, which is why plenty of kitchens skip it.

At Karaf by Bahçe the kebabs and grills are finished over charcoal. The stone oven handles lahmacun and pide, which are opened to order rather than held warm.

Mezze is not a starter

In a Turkish meal the mezze table is the meal, or at least the first half of it. Cold mezze arrive together and stay on the table: hummus, haydari, muhammara, saksuka, fava, aubergine salad. Hot mezze follow. The grill comes later, and nobody is in a hurry.

This is why a Turkish restaurant is better with four people than with two, and why the menu is built around sharing rather than a plate each.

Where to eat it on the Palm

Karaf by Bahçe is on the beachfront at Club Vista Mare, at the entrance to Palm Jumeirah, with indoor tables and a terrace facing the water. Open daily from 11:00 until 01:00.